You are removing leaves so the tree has less energy,' says Richard Borrie. If there’s too much leafy growth on your tree and not enough quality fruit, then summer pruning can come to the rescue. (Image credit: Future) Pruning fruit trees in summer 'Trained fruit such as espalier apples and pears will need doing in winter, as if these are left they soon lose their form – cut back almost all their shoots to stubs only, leaving those needed to extend the frameworks,' adds Bob. 'Finally plants expect winter damage and so are equipped to deal with it. It’s better for plants to lose top growth sooner than later, as this 'reduces their chances of windrock damage and breakages,' says Bob.

It's also easier to see where to make a cut on bare branches. 'There is little point pruning after bud burst', says Richard Borrie of Orange Pippin Fruit Trees (opens in new tab), 'as the rejuvenating benefits will be reduced'. 'First, pruning backyard trees once the sap goes down means fewer resources are taken away than they would be if you leave it until the sap is rising, and the buds start to swell towards the end of winter.' 'The reasons to prune in winter are manifold,' explains Bob Flowerdew, Amateur Gardening's organic gardening expert. By pruning them in winter, just before dormancy breaks, it means you can rest assured that they will soon be able to heal their pruning wounds, and focus all their energy on the growth of the best branches. ‘Pip’ fruit trees like apples and pears are pruned in winter. Pruning stone fruit trees during the warmer, drier months of summer (after fruiting) means you’ll minimize the risk of these trees succumbing to disease. This is because stone fruit trees like plums, cherries, peaches and the like, are susceptible to silver leaf infection and bacterial canker, both of which favor damp conditions.

Free download pruning fruit trees